Interview between henna expert, Maureen Jones of EveryDay Mehndi and Fox of Long Hair Loom Forum

November 15 2003 at 3:33 AM

Maureen Jones considers herself to be in Pre-retirement. She certainly deserves it! She studied Fine Arts, Education, Art History, Public Administration, and Therapy in her formal education. She worked as an artist, administrator in the public sector, social worker, and therapist. She currently owns and operates two business... this is her "pre-retirement!"

While this article is about henna, Maureen also owns the Multicultural Arts and Recreational Times also known as M'ART. They do private contract work throughout Western Pennsylvania with non-profit and governmental agencies and organizations providing expressive arts workshops. Designing and facilitating workshops for women, men, children, adults, individuals, families and groups who have experienced trauma and continue to deal with the resulting effects of the traumatic experience is what M'ART is all about. The purpose of M'ART Workshops is to provide opportunities for individuals to experience and use the arts in ways that promotes health and wellness.

Maureen came to my attention because of her other business, EveryDay Mehndi. EveryDay Mehndi is an online store related to natural products that are utilized for body art, hair and skin care. Maureen has been gracious enough to grant the Loom a very informative interview!

Maureen, can you tell me what your plan was and is with EveryDay Mehndi?

The focus is on providing organic products and ingredients that we develop, that may be used safely on the body for the purpose of obtaining and maintaining beautiful, healthy hair and skin. We also want to source out and make available such products that are used on the hair and skin. At EveryDay Mehndi, I have sought to offer natural, organic and safe product alternatives to harmful and harsh chemicals. Many of the products we develop and sell at EveryDay Mehndi are an outgrowth and natural extension to my fascination with, and research into natural alternatives that began around 1970. It was around that time that I first discovered how much can be done with an egg and chamomile tea. In addition to the website store, I also own and manage online forums.

The Henna and Mehndi World Community Forum is a community where we discuss all things henna.

So educating people is also important to you! Well, I'm ready to be educated! Can you tell me exactly what henna is?

There are a lot of things that are referred to as "henna." Some actually have nothing whatsoever to do with henna. In fact, many actually have nothing whatsoever to do with henna.

Typically, "henna" refers to the leaves or powder from the leaves of the henna bush. Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) is one of many natural dyes. The pigment found in the leaves of the henna bush release as a dye when added to a liquid such water or something acidic, such as lemon juice. What separates henna from many other natural dyes, is its ability to stain the skin and hair more effectively, and for longer periods of time than most natural dyes are capable of doing.

While the term "henna" is added to lots of products and ingredients used on hair and skin, it is important to seek henna that is 100% henna.That is 100% Lawsonia Inermis.

How is henna processed? Are there any chemicals used in it prior to marketing?

All things contain some sort of chemical or another. What we seek with henna and our other natural products is that the product item or ingredient be 100% natural; meaning that it contains no synthetics.

Natural henna, 100% henna, 100% natural henna, Lawsonia Inermis are the ways that "henna" will be referred to when it contains no additives of any kind. For hair and skin, that is what most people want.

There are "henna" products sold that contain synthetics and additives. Most of these products provide clues that they are not 100% natural henna. Some may have label warnings related to allergies, and these should be avoided. There are also "henna" products sold that contain metallic salts; these are called "henna compounds." This type of product should also be avoided.

There are also "henna" products sold that contain additives that are not synthetic. On these products the label often indicates that they are 100% herbal rather than 100% henna, natural henna, or Lawsonia Inermis. These products are safe to use and the additive is typically there to provide color or increase conditioning properties of the henna.

Add to this, that there are products sold with "henna" tacked on to the name that most often do not contain any henna at all, or so little henna that its effect would be negligible. These are typically commercial products that have hopped onto the "natural" products bandwagon and hope that the customer does not notice that 95% of the product ingredients are synthetic. Most of the products in your drug store or beauty supply store that bear the name "henna something or other," or list henna as an ingredient tend to fall into this category.

Henna is processed by manufacturers who purchase huge quantities of henna grown on henna plantations/farms. The leaves are harvested from the henna bushes. These leaves are then taken to factories where machines grind them into powder. Most often, henna powder is created by blending a number of types of henna leaves from different areas of a country, or from different countries and different types of henna plants, in order to produce the henna powder the manufacturer desires. After grinding, the henna is then sifted. The sift of henna that can be obtained can range from poorly sifted to ultra finely sifted. Poorly sifted henna will contain visible pieces of leaf and stem. Ultra finely sifted henna powder is talc-like and contains no leaf and stem pieces. The sift is often more important to people who use henna for body art. However, more and more, people using henna for hair are enjoying the benefit of using finely sifted henna powder for their hair. The finely sifted henna powder used for hair creates a much smoother paste and leaves no leaf and stem parts in the hair that become a problem to remove. When the henna powder has been sifted, it is then packaged for the market.

What makes henna beneficial to hair?

Henna provides two types of benefit to the hair simultaneously. Henna will condition and color the hair. As a conditioner, henna strengthens the hair. It is an anti-fungal, and reduces the occurrence of dandruff. It conditions the scalp, slightly loosens the curl pattern, and helps to detangle as well as make hair more manageable. As a natural source of color, henna colors the hair red. Not a bright cherry red, but rather a beautiful and natural red for hair.

How does henna color the hair?

Henna does not color hair like synthetic dyes. Henna coats the hair shaft with a transparent red coloring. As applications of henna are repeated, the color deepens. Henna does not and cannot lighten hair. However, it can provide on dark hair, red and reddish highlights. Henna on black and dark brown hair will eventually become dark auburn to burgundy/black with red highlights in sunlight. Henna on blonde hair can shift to a natural red. Henna on red hair will make the hair a deeper richer red. Henna on brown hair can range from a natural red to auburn, to dark auburn depending upon the shade of brown. Henna on white hair will make the hair a natural red to deep red. A benefit to using henna is that it will both condition and color your hair in a way that is both natural and safe.

Some people have said that they experience dryness with repeated henna use; why is that?

There could be a number of reasons for this. Most often it is an issue with their application process. Often people do not rinse the henna from their hair and scalp sufficiently. The henna paste must be rinsed thoroughly from the hair. Even beyond the point when the water runs clear, you must rinse the hair a few more times. To not do so will result in a feeling of dryness to the hair. When people are not accustomed to using henna, they often underestimate the amount of rinsing that is required and often think they have sufficiently rinsed the hair when they have not. There are often tell-tale signs when the hair has not been rinsed sufficiently: Orange stains on hands, pillow-cases, collars that come into contact with the hair; itchy scalp; dryness and brittleness of the hair.

People with hair that leans to the dry side of normal should be aware that henna does not make the hair less dry or subject to dryness. If a person with typically normal to dry hair does not thoroughly rinse the henna paste from their hair, a dryness problem can become exacerbated.

Another cause is that often people using henna do not know that they should also use a conditioning moisturizer or oils, to moisturize and seal in moisture to their hair. I see henna and a good moisturizer as a one-two punch the hair needs. Henna, the hair, rinse thoroughly, then moisturize the hair when the hair is still wet or moist. The conditioning henna provides to the hair is different from the conditioning a moisturizer provides to the hair. Your hair needs both. It is often when people do not have a moisturizer in their hair care regimen that they state that they experience henna as "drying" to the hair. My guess is that because they are not using a moisturizer, that whatever they use, they would eventually find drying. The hair will require both sorts of conditioning in order to get into and remain in balance.

And second to not effectively rinsing the hair, the reason most often for the experience of dryness when using henna has been the addition of henna to a hair regimen without eliminating other products. When using henna, I suggest carefully looking at what other products one is using and eliminating the protein products and cholesterol.

Another culprit to the experience of dryness and brittleness can be the water in your area. If you have hard water, it will effect your hair when you rinse it. Often, just using distilled water as the final rinse can make all of the difference in the world. Some people have also found that having water filters installed have resulted in better hair results with whatever shampoos and conditioners they use.

One of the lovely things about using henna is that you can create your paste recipe specifically for your hair. Many people who may have concerns about dryness add carrier and essential oils to their paste. Many who do not like the smell add essential oils and floral waters to their paste. Many who want to shift the coloring add other natural dyes to their paste.

Is henna so sealing that it locks out moisture and makes conditioning treatments worthless?

No, that is one of the myths about henna. Henna provides a transparent coating to the hair that seals in the hair's natural moisture. However, this effect does not coat the hair shaft such that it locks out other sources of moisture. So other conditioning treatments will be quite effective with henna. And as stated above, the combination of henna and a moisturizing conditioning is an excellent and healthy combo for your hair.

I've heard that henna should be used no more often than every 3 months in order to let the previous henna wear off. How often should henna be applied?

Most people use henna once a month.once every 4 weeks. Henna can be used safely more often. However, it is not necessary to use it more frequently for the coloring and conditioning benefits.

Can henna be applied on top of previously color-treated hair, hair that has had chemical services, perms, thermal reconditioning or relaxers?

Yes and No...

Yes.if you are using 100% natural henna powder (Lawsonia Inermis) or a 100% natural herbal/henna powder. If you know who you are purchasing your henna from and trust the information they provide about the henna powder they sell, ask them if their henna is 100% natural henna powder or a 100% natural herbal/henna powder. The person you purchase your henna powder from should know what they are selling. If you think they do not know what they are selling intimately.intimately means that they import it directly.then pass on purchasing from them. Because. this is where the no part of the answer comes in...

No. you can't use "henna" over previously chemically treated hair if what you have is a henna compound or a henna product with ingredients you don't know about or can't pronounce.

The one exception to the use of henna with these products would be using henna with any of the semi-permanent hair colorants that contains metallic salts or metallic dyes. It is again these metallic salts and metallic dyes that are of concern. The metallic salts and metallic dyes are used in many semi-permanent hair colorants and should not be used with henna or with previously color-treated hair, hair that has had chemical services, perms, thermal reconditioning or relaxers. The reason is that the metallic dyes and metallic salts react with the neutralizers used with perms and relaxers and also with peroxide used with many hair dyes. This reaction can cause damage to both the hair and scalp due to the intense heat that can be created during the chemical reaction. These same metallic dyes will alter the color results of most synthetic or natural dyes and can produce quite strange hair colors as a result.typically dark brown, black or green!!!

Once you apply henna, will it always be on your hair strands, or will it eventually wear off?

Henna eventually fades out of the hair and off the hair strands. Its effect is temporary. This is why in order to maintain the effects of the henna, applications must continue. Without repeat application, henna coloring can be entirely gone in 3-9 months. Its various conditioning effects wear off at different rates. For example, henna loosens the curl pattern of the hair. However, as soon as you wash your hair, the curl pattern reverts to your normal curl pattern. You need and want repeat applications of henna monthly to maintain the strengthening effect on your hair. Bottom-line, whatever the effect of henna on your hair, it is temporary rather than permanent.

Would it be safe to go back to using hair dyes and bleaches after using henna, even if you only used clear henna?

You can use bleaches and hair dyes on hair that has been previously hennaed. Is it safe? I would say "No!" But that is because I do not consider the use of synthetic hair dyes and bleach to be safe to use ever. But if you mean will your hair fall out or turn colors etc., the answer is that none of that would happen as a result of using 100% natural henna. I can't speak for what damage a specific hair dye or bleach might have on the hair. But one should not expect a negative reaction between the henna on the hair and the dyes and bleach. Again, the only exception would be those semi-permanent hair colors that may contain metallic salts or dyes.

What is "clear" henna?

By clear henna I imagine you mean "neutral henna." The same as above. Anticipate there to be no negative effect or reaction. Though, "neutral henna" is not henna (Lawsonia Inermis) at all really. It is typically one of a number of other herbs and botanicals that are used to condition the hair similarly to henna but which does not effect the hair color.

Can henna be used over bleached hair in place of a toner, to get a different color result, or will the results be "green hair"?

This one is a bit more tricky. My concern would be what other "toners" were used on the hair. The hair history would have to be absolutely known. If there is a chance that the person has used one of the semi-permanent hair colorants or something like Grecian Formula, or got a source of metallic salt on their hair from another source, the answer would be that the metallic salts still in the hair could result in green hair. It could result in green hair with henna and a lot of other hair dyes as well. It is not about the pigment source. It is about what the metallic salt will do when coming into contact with a source of pigment. So the history of the hair is critical. If there is absolutely no change that there has been a metallic salt in the hair, then you are good to go with henna. If the bleached hair turns green when a dye has been place on it, a metallic salt has been introduced to that hair somewhere down the line and is still present in the hair.

What is the most effective way to cover gray hair? Can gray haired ladies use a color other than red to cover their gray?

To color your gray hair with henna, there are two effective ways, and it will depend upon the color result you wish to obtain. If you wish for the gray hair to be red, then using excellent and fresh henna powder will do the job. If you desire a color other than red, a two step process is recommended. First color the gray hair red with natural henna powder. Then color the gray hair that has been turned red either brown, dark brown or black with an herbal/henna powder. For black hair, indigo can be substituted in the second step for the herbal/henna powder in black. These two processes can safely be done back to back.meaning within a 24 hour period. You may stretch the time frame out longer if desired.

What you need to remember is that neither henna nor herbal/henna can lighten your hair color. So if red is used in the two step process to take the gray hair to red, you cannot then use a color like "golden" as the second step to turn the now red hair to blonde. It can not lighten the hair. It is a transparent/translucent coloring and the color beneath the henna helps to determine the resulting color.

However, you could use herbal/henna in a color like "golden" to turn your gray hair blonde by using just a one step process by applying the herbal/henna in "golden" to your hair. There would be no second step. Just remember that if your natural hair color is brown, the herbal/henna powder in "golden" will not lighten any part of your brown hair. The brown will show through the transparent/translucent layer of the henna. You would therefore have hair that is blonde and brown. With the previously gray hair becoming blonde and the rest of your hair remaining brown.

People with dark brown and black hair find the two step process effective in achieving the color results they want. People with light hair tend to find the one step process more to their liking. People with mid-range brown hair often struggle to create a balance between the red hair and the original color of their brown hair when maintaining the specific brown is important to them. In either the one or two step process, the light to mid range brown hair will change and is hard to match because there exists such a range of browns. However, when a specific brown is not as important, the herbal/henna in brown, dark brown, chestnut, auburn etc., are typically found satisfying and can be obtained with either the one or two step process.

Can you touch up your roots with henna without leaving an obvious color line?

When you have previously colored your hair with henna, touching up the roots without coloring and conditioning the rest of the hair is possible. This is because of the gradual way henna colors. However, if you have not previously colored your hair with henna and want to cover the gray, unless you have red hair, there will be a dramatic difference between the color of the hair receiving the henna and the hair that has not received the henna.

Because henna conditions the hair as well as colors it.and because henna is typically applied once a month.why not just henna the new growth as well as the rest of your hair so that all of your hair benefits from the conditioning properties of the henna applied.

What is the best way to apply henna for even color and conditioning?

When and if you can, it is wonderful to have someone else apply your henna paste to your hair. They can see the back of your head and you can not. They can see the missed spots and you can't; they will apply it more evenly than you. But, that is a luxury most of us do not have, and that is all right. Because henna is a paste.and because it remains on your hair longer than your typical hair colorant, it tends to work its way through the hair. The plastic cap aids in this process.

However, making your paste thin enough to work through your hair thorough with your fingers is the best way to assure good and even coverage. Divide your hair in small sections and apply the henna paste to each section.making sure to get the henna on ever section of the hair shafts. Then work the henna in with your fingers to make sure that all of the hair is covered. The larger sections you attempt to work at one time, the more likely you will miss places. Some people have difficulty getting the henna paste to hold to the hair and experience it falling off sections. There are two things you can do to help with this. One is to thin your paste a bit more. The other is to apply your henna to moist hair.

For those of us with longer hair, what method or precautions can we take to prevent tangling of hair length while applying and rinsing out henna?

Sometimes, nothing beats another pair of hands. When you have the luxury of a friend who henna's her/his hair, or a sister or cousin or neighbor, buddy-up and help each other out. Apply the henna to their hair in exchange for them applying it to your hair. Often we can get tangles and have problems simply because we are working blind on our own hair. To buddy-up provides you with another set of hands as well as eyes.

Other suggestions that might help: Section the hair into small sections prior to putting the paste on your hair. Twist and pin each section. Apply paste to small sections at a time. Work from the back of the hair to the front, unpinning each section and applying paste to each section one at a time.

While wearing a plastic cap helps to provide the warm moist environment that henna loves, it is not totally necessary in order to get the coloring and conditioning effect from the henna. Sometimes the hair becomes more tangled when piled up on the head and forced under the plastic cap. You can allow your hair to air dry with the paste on it and still get excellent coloring.

Braiding or plaiting the hair prior to applying henna also helps to prevent the hair from tangling. It also provides an interesting and beautiful coloring effect to the hair.

Be sure to rinse the paste from the hair while standing in the shower. Let the water run on the hair so that the hair is not falling down and forward over the face. Instead, let the water run on the hair so your hair is falling backward and down the back. Work the paste out of the hair with your fingers (with gloves on) while water runs on the hair in the rinsing stage. Use your fingers to work the paste from the hair and at the same time, use the fingers to comb through the hair.

When the hair has been thoroughly rinsed and all henna paste is removed, AND while the hair is still moist, apply a moisturizing conditioner or oils to seal in the moisture. Work the moisturizer or oils through the hair and comb through the hair with your fingers. While the hair is still wet and detangled, comb through your hair with a large tooth comb.

Henna is very effective at detangling hair. So when tangling is experienced after your henna application, typically the problem is with how we handle our hair while removing the paste and rinsing the hair.

Are there things that can cause your henna color results to fade faster than normal, like the use of oils and deep conditioners?

When your henna color is set, oils and deep conditioning will not effect the color. However, oils and deep conditioning prior to your henna application or the use of oils in your paste can interfere with the henna coloring adhering to the hair by creating a resist on the hair shaft. This is typically observed rather quickly if oils on the hair or in your paste has created this resistance or barrier to coloring. The conditioning effect of the henna will be present, but the coloring effect will be absent. People adding oils to there henna paste will need to find the balance that allows the oils to be used, but not in quantity to provide resistance or barrier to color.

There are other things that do effect color. Sun fades the color of henna. Henna is a natural dye and has the same weakness that is inherent in most natural dyes. The sun will make the color fade. While henna coloring is more resilient than most natural dyes, it still will fade out in the sun. This won't be dramatic. It won't be a now you see it now you don't experience. But without repeat applications, normal sun exposure will eventually fade henna coloring from the hair. Lots and lots of sun exposure speeds the process up.

Chlorine and salt water will also cause the color to fade faster. So if you are an avid swimmer, you may want to protect your hair with a cap, and even apply some oils to the hair under the cap to reduce the effect of the chlorine and salt water on the color.

Does using a vinegar rinse help to seal the hair and color in after a henna treatment? I've heard from some henna users that they've experienced less "color residue" onto their hair towels when doing this.

If there is color residue on the hair towels, then the henna has not been sufficiently rinsed from the hair. What the vinegar has done is simply helped to rinse more henna from the hair...and for some people, increase shine or sheen. The vinegar can have the effect of aiding to rinse the henna from the hair. However, more rinsing with water or using a mild diluted shampoo as the step prior to applying a moisturizer will do the same thing.

The color residue on the towel is an alert that the hair and scalp have not been rinsed sufficiently. That can create the problems we spoke about above with the experience of dry and brittle hair. Such residue will also make the hair look dull rather than shiny, the way henna and your moisturizer should leave your hair.

Do you need to take precautions for your skin? What if you do stain your skin, can you remove that color?

Henna stains the hair and skin a bit differently. It takes less dye release to color hair than is required to stain the skin. Henna will stain the hair more quickly than it will stain the skin and also will last on the hair longer than it lasts on skin. The good news is that henna does not stain the skin on our face, scalp, neck and ears, as well as it stains skin on other body parts. The skin in these areas is far to thin for henna's liking. So while there may be some staining, it is a stain that won't develop as stains on other body parts tend to. So if your henna stains your face, neck or ears, the stain is typically a light orange for a day or few hours and then disappears. Also it can usually be washed away with a bit of scrubbing on the face, neck and ears where the stain has occurred.

To avoid this, you can use a grease that repels water on the neck, hair edges and ears to create a barrier to stains, and also put tissue at the edge of your plastic cap in order to prevent the henna paste from running from beneath the cap.

So the good news is that there are things henna does not like that can both remedy and help you get rid of stains on the face, neck and ears. Henna's dye does not penetrate oils and grease well. Henna stains thick skin excellently and thin skin not well or at all. That is why henna does not work to stain the lips or provide designs to the face. And henna stains on skin needs to be kept away from water for 24 hours in order for the stain to develop. The grease when well placed and washing the area immediately, combined with the nature of skin on the area of the face, ears and neck will help prevent the henna from staining and prevent any stains from developing.

Do additions to your henna mixture, like oils, conditioner, tea, coffee or lemon juice make your mix more of less effective? Can they do both? For instance, if you used lemon juice, could it increase your color benefit, but lessen your conditioning benefit by being overly acidic?

It totally depends upon what you use what results you wish to obtain. Tea and coffee can provide very short term browning/darkening of your color results depending upon what tea or coffee you use and how strong the brew you make. However, the dyeing ability of these as natural dyes is very short term and the difference they make are rarely worth the effort of mixing them. However, they can make your paste smell wonderful.

Lemon provides an acid that helps to break down the pigment in the henna which helps the dye to release more quickly and efficiently. So lemon juice is very effective for this purpose. Much more so than water. The 50/50 mixture of the lemon juice concentrate and distilled water tends to be a good balance that does not make its use counter-productive.

Oils can be useful or create barriers. Carrier/fixed oils like olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, etc., can be helpful in your paste for people with very dry hair. People with oily hair will find these oils problematic in their paste. Essential oils can each provide some nourishing and helpful properties that can make them desirous. However, using the wrong essential oil or the essential oil in the wrong quantity can create all sorts of problems. Examples would be like rosemary essential oil that can be used to stimulate the scalp, provide shine to the hair and serve to make the henna stain a deeper red. However, it should not be used by women who are expecting a child or on children. Too much can also be irritating to the scalp. Lavender is a better choice. Tea tree is also healthy for the hair and scalp. But in the wrong quantity can be irritating to the skin and the fumes can irritate the eyes of some people.and other people find the smell too overwhelming. The same with cinnamon which has to be used in lesser quantities than the rosemary, tea tree or lavender. Understanding essential oils and how they should be used and what they do is important when selecting to use essential oils.

In fact, understanding each and every ingredient that you may add to your paste is important. You want to know that neem oil is healthy for your hair and scalp. But also that it can be redundant when used with tea tree. And also that it smells pretty awful. So if smell is important.pass on the neem. You want to use what does the job that you want to have done.and nothing else. You also want to understand that adding something to your paste may mean that you can eliminate another product or process in your regimen. You will probably want to choose between a deep conditioning with your oils prior to your henna application and adding oils to your paste. Too much will alter your expected results. Do you really need three essential oils that do the same thing? Is the carrier/fixed oil that you select the right one for your hair? Is it too heavy.too light.or just right?

We all know strand testing is important, so would you mix your strand test mixture in the same way you're going to mix your main batch, only with smaller amounts?

Yes. What you want to learn from the strand test is what outcome to expect. So always mix your paste just as you would mix it for your regular use, only in a smaller amount.

Now that we know what henna is, and how it works, what is the best way to mix your henna?

Henna is a conditioner and colorant for your hair. But one of the things I love most about henna is that it is also a raw material. It is the base from which you can mix a paste to meet your own needs, wants and desires.

The basic way to mix your henna paste would be to use the following recipe and process:

A Basic Henna Paste for Hair Recipe

Ingredients :

• Henna powder (100 grams per every 12 inches of hair)
• Liquid (50/50 distilled water and lemon juice concentrate)

Supplies -

• Plastic gloves
• Plastic cap (optional)
• Designated "henna bowl"
• Designated "henna towel" and other "henna clothes"
• Plastic wrap (the type used to cover food)
• Foil
• Stirrer

Process :

Mix your henna powder in a plastic, ceramic or glass bowl with sufficient lemon juice/water mix to create a paste the consistency of thick yogurt. You want your paste typically to be thick enough to be scooped up with your fingers and applied to your hair. However, you can make it a bit more thin to be applied using a plastic bottle with tip (like the ones used by beauticians to apply color). Stir the paste to make sure that all of the powder is mixed with the liquid. Cover your paste such that no light or air gets into the container. Covering with plastic wrap and then foil will do the job if your container does not have a cover. Designate this as your "henna bowl." Allow your henna paste to sit for dye release by placing it in a place with temps at 75 to 85 degrees for between 8 and 24 hours. The length of time depends upon the amount of henna you have mixed. Eight to 12 hours is sufficient for 100 grams. Since most homes are not kept at temperatures between 75 to 85 degrees, you may want to place your paste on a warm spot in the house. On top of the refrigerator, on a heat register, or on a warm spot on a TV that is kept on will work. Just know that it is the combination of warmth and time that causes the dye to release sufficient for your needs.

After the allotted time, uncover your paste and check it for dye release. The released dye will appear as a liquid or film on top of your paste. Stirring the paste slightly will allow you to observe the difference in color of the paste on top and the rest of the paste in the bowl. Stir the released dye back into the paste. You want your paste thoroughly saturated with the dye.

When your paste is ready, apply your paste to your hair.wearing your plastic gloves and henna gear. Once your henna paste has been applied to hair, cover your hair with a plastic cap. The plastic cap is optional, but it does provide a nice warm and cozy environment that henna loves.

In order to prevent the henna from staining your face and ears and neck, apply some sort of grease or oil based barrier. In order to prevent the henna paste from running from under the plastic cap, use some tissue at the edges of the cap.

Cover your plastic cap with a towel to provide more warmth.

Leave the paste on your hair from 2 to 8 hours. How long it takes the henna to color your hair is dependent upon your particular hair and the color results you desire. How long you leave the paste on also depends upon your personal preference. Some people like to apply the henna at night and wash it out in the morning. Others apply the henna during the day. Your schedule and your particular hair needs will dictate the length of time you leave the henna on your hair.

When it is time to rinse the henna from your hair, determine the easiest way and place for you to do so. Most people find the shower easy and convenient. Rinse thoroughly. And when you are sure that you have all of the henna out of your hair, rinse and rinse again.

When your hair is thoroughly rinsed and the henna paste is removed from your hair, apply your moisturizing conditioner or oils to seal in the moisture while your hair is still moist. Comb through your hair with your fingers. Then proceed as usual to style or set your hair. Henna on your towels and clothing will leave stains that will not come out. Henna on ceramic tiles and sinks and showers will wash off readily and will not stain them permanently.

Because you can make your henna experience specific for your needs, you can choose to create your own recipe by adding some of the following to the basic recipe above.

Add In's:

You may choose to add essential oils that are beneficial to your hair and scalp to your paste. Some favorites are rosemary, lavender, tea tree, cinnamon, patchouli, ylang ylang, jasmine or rose. Understanding essential oils and the amount that is recommended for use based upon the quantity of your paste is important. So please use essential oils wisely.

You may also wish to add herbal brews to your henna experience. To do so, make a tea brew with your favorite herb and substitute the herbal brew for the distilled water. Make your herbal brew with the distilled water. Then strain the brew. You don't want the herbs in your paste. They will just be bothersome to pick out of your hair. Some favorite herbal brews are made with rosemary, stinging nettle, lavender, patchouli, chamomile, calendula, green tea, or horsetail.

You may wish to substitute the distilled water with your favorite floral water or add essential oil in, in order to shift the smell of the henna on your hair. Some people love the natural herby smell of henna. Some people do not. The choice is yours. I personally love to use rose water as my final rinse or to put a few drops of rose essential oil in my paste.

Henna is a personal and intimate experience. Your final results are dependent not just on the henna, but also on your own personal chemistry. So each person's experience is somewhat unique. Making your henna paste unique and specific to you in ways described above helps you to meet the specific needs of your own hair, while making the experience pleasing by adding fragrances that are meaningful to you.

Does using heat enhance the color and conditioning benefits?

Henna loves warmth maintained for required time in order to stain effectively. Too much heat during the dye release stage of the paste can kill the dye and cook the paste and result in paste that does not color.

Too much heat applied while the paste is on the hair can cause the hair to dry too quickly and therefore stop the coloring process.

However, the right amount of heat/warmth at the right time enhances the coloring and conditioning benefits. To release the dye, hold the paste at 75 to 85 degrees for 8 to 24 hours. When your paste is on your hair, sufficient warmth is provided by your body temperature when the plastic cap is used. If you do not use a plastic cap, sitting in the sun, in a sauna, or warm room will provide sufficient warmth without drying the henna paste too quickly.

You can get the conditioning benefits with henna in 1 to 2 hours. It is the coloring that takes time.

How long should your henna stay on? Does leaving it on overnight give any additional benefits?

The main benefit of leaving your henna on overnight will be how the color is effected. Your hair will obtain the conditioning benefits of henna in 1 to 2 hours. You will find out through a strand or "harvested hair" test how long it will take for the henna to provide desired coloring to your hair. The time element can be different for different people. Location and environment can also be a factor. In a very cold place, the paste may require more time on the hair than in a warm place. If your hair takes to coloring fast, it will take less time for the henna to color your hair. If your hair is resistant to coloring, it will take more time for the henna to color your hair. Taking red hair or light brown hair to the desired color will take less time than taking black or blonde hair to the desired color. So leaving the henna on the hair overnight will indeed have benefits for some people and not be necessary at all for others. What you want to learn from your strand or "harvest hair" test is what is the optimal length of time the henna needs to remain on your hair. There is no set time that will work for all people. But the range is between 2 and 8 hours.

What is the best way to get the deepest, richest red color?

The best way to get the deepest, richest red color is to obtain the best quality of henna powder. Henna powder is not henna powder is not henna powder. The quality of henna powder that you obtain is going to be the greatest determinant of positive outcome when you have a good recipe and process.

The best henna powder will have two important qualities. It will be fresh and it will be well sifted. Most henna powder that you purchase off the shelves of stores is much older than henna powder obtained from a supplier who imports it directly. There can be typically as much as a 2 year difference in the age of henna powder off the shelves from henna powder suppliers import. Henna deteriorates with age. Henna powder that is a year or more in age will color your hair. But it will not provide the rich color of henna powder that is a few months old. Suppliers who import henna typically make sure to import henna from the latest crop and they time their purchases to correspond to these crops. So their henna will be packaged a few weeks to a month prior to their receiving it and having it available to sell. Shipments are air transported and are in transit for a few days.

Henna powders on store shelves are transported by ship and are in transit for months and months. On the ships, they are kept in conditions that hasten henna demise. Once they are taken from ships, they are typically stored in warehouses for years until all of the stock has been distributed and sold. When the powder arrives in stores and are placed on the shelves, they are most often already old. Will you get some color? Yes! Will the color be the best that can be obtained from henna? No! And unfortunately, many people determine what henna is and what it can do by henna powder bought off the shelves.

The other problem with off the shelf powder is also an important one. And that is that often the person purchasing it does not know what is actually in the package. Because it says "henna" on the package does not mean that what is in the package is 100% natural henna powder.Lawsonia Inermis. Packages are mislabeled, content misrepresented or often does not exist. The danger of this is that some of these products are the "henna compounds" discussed above. Others contain synthetic dyes and are therefore counter to the purpose of the purchase when the purchaser is seeking a natural conditioner and dye. And to add mystery and confusion to the mix, many brand names sell totally different quality henna powders in identical boxes. So how does one have a chance of knowing what they are getting off the shelf. The people in the stores will not have the answer for you. They simply sell henna as one of their many items and will not have the information the purchaser will need.

The short of it is, obtain the highest quality and freshest henna powder and you will be rewarded with deep rich color.

Once you have obtained your quality henna powder, you need to know a few other things:

The color result you obtain when you first rinse the henna from your hair will darken and deepen in color over the next few days; Henna coloring darkens and deepens in color and richness with repeat applications. The color darkens and deepens until you obtain the peak color capacity of the particular henna powder. Some henna powders manufactured in different countries are known for their color results. Persian henna powder ( Iran ) is known to provide the deepest and richest reds. Moroccan henna powder also provides deep and rich stains that are typically a bit more red/brown than Persian henna powders. Indian henna powders tend to be third in deep, dark richness in colors. However, when any of these powders are fresh, you obtain excellent coloring. And, The final color results obtained are dependent upon the color of hair the henna has been applied to.

There are also other natural dyes that may be added to enhance the color of your henna paste. Two of these that are used for reds are hibiscus and beets root powder. These natural dyes that can be obtained in powder form and added to your paste, tend to shift the color to more of a bright red rather than the more natural coloring of red hair that natural henna produces.

Are colored hennas as beneficial as pure red henna? If so, which brands are best and worse?

It depends upon which one you are using. Some are better than others in terms of color results. Some are "colored" by dyes other than natural dyes and can therefore be a source of synthetic dyes to the hair and system. Some color poorly but condition well and others condition poorly but color well. Some color and condition excellently.

The only herbal/henna powder that I use for the purpose of coloring my hair and the one that I have found to be effective is the one I sell. I can only comment on other brands based purely on feedback that I have received from people who have used other brands or no-brand name "colored" powders. The feedback I have is limited to comments of others who have been dissatisfied with other brands and used my herbal/henna powders with satisfactory results. I certainly have done no research to speak to brand effectiveness.just anecdotes from people who have used one thing or another and are still in search of something effective.

Rather than "best" or "worse," I can only speak to reports of effectiveness that people have shared with me. I can only say that people have found most loose no-brand name powders purchased from natural food or health food stores to be probably the least effective. Feedback on Light Mountain has been that it conditions well but the color does not last long enough. The same with Lush. Great conditioning but dissatisfaction with color results. Hennalucent feedback has been mixed. Some people loving it and others getting surprise color results. Typically, the surprise was due to the color indicated on the box was quite different than the color results on the hair. But that could and probably is a problem with color printing. The original Hennalucent contained metallic salts that could provide problems. So being sure which Hennalucent one obtains would be important. Hennalucent is also a product that is not all natural. The other feedback has been purchasers inability to use some of these products to color their white hair effectively. And some products do specifically indicate that they are not effective in coloring white hair.

I do know that Light Mountain , Hennalucent and Lush have a loyal customer base and therefore have to conclude that for some people these products work excellently. The important thing is always to find the product that works best for you based upon what you desire from a product.

My herbal/henna powders are a combination of 100% natural henna powder (that provides conditioning and coloring) or "neutral" henna powder (that provides conditioning) and another natural dye (that provides coloring). They are all natural and condition and color effectively. So I would consider my own to be the "best" for my purpose of offering an all natural product and effective product in a range of colors that people desire that will also provide excellent conditioning.

What I would suggest for people seeking alternative colors through a natural product, is that you read the ingredients list and ask questions regarding anything on the ingredients list that you do not understand. Herbal/henna powders are sold by a number of different companies. If one is seeking a natural way to color and condition their hair, I recommend the herbal/henna powders. They are uncomplicated and easy to understand. If the package indicates "herbal/henna" yet contains a long list of ingredients, then you are typically dealing with something other than your typical "herbal/henna" powder. The most complicated ingredient list that I have ever seen for a true herbal/henna powder contained 3 ingredients. The henna conditions and colors and the other one or two natural dye provides the defining color.

What if you already have red or auburn hair -- can a colored henna turn your hair into a darker shade, like brown?

The darkening of hair from a red or auburn can be obtained with an herbal/henna powder. A natural henna powder can only make red hair a deeper red or shift the color of the red.and make the auburn more reddish.

Is black henna safe to use?

This takes us to the complication and confusion of the terminology used when speaking of henna. There really is no black henna or colored henna. Henna.natural 100% natural henna (Lawsonia Inermis) will only color the hair red. On the body, the range of colors include orange, tan, burgundy, red, and dark colors like black cherry, eggplant, burgundy/black, and a full range of browns. But on hair, the color results will be red or red highlights. With ineffective recipes and processes and even old henna powder, one may get orange on light hair. But this can be remedied with an effective recipe, process, quality henna and a repeat application.

What is often referred to as "colored" henna is typically henna with something added to it.or something that is not henna at all. Even "neutral" henna is not henna.but another botanical entirely.

What is referred to as "black henna" is typically one of three things:

Henna powder that black hair dye has been added to. This is used on the hair and unfortunately, also used by people to provide designs on skin. The hair dye included typically contains PPD. Sometimes it is Bigen hair dye.which is almost purely PPD. This is not good to use on the hair or the skin due to the allergic reactions that are possible and also due the sensitivity to dyes that can develop over time with constant and prolonged use. If one is seeking a natural product, then the synthetic dyes in these products makes this not desirable. The health consequences should also be a major concern.

Pure synthetic hair dye.PPD. The concerns are the same as for henna powder to which black hair die has been added.

Indigo has been referred to as "black henna" in many countries and cultures long before people in the West began to use anything referred to as henna. Indigo is a natural dye. However, it is not henna.Lawsonia Inermis. It is another natural dye and botanical entirely.

Products used for the hair to provide coloring and/or conditioning have long been referred to as some type of "henna" in many societies simply as a way to differentiate between the effect the item would have on the hair. Neutral henna referred to the plants/powder used to provide conditioning but not color to the hair. Natural or "Red" henna was the term used to refer to the plant/powder that would color the hair red while conditioning the hair. Black henna was used as the term to refer to the plant/powder that would color the hair black but had no conditioning properties. This plant/powder was typically indigo. Indigo does not contain PPD.is safe to use on the hair.is typically used with natural henna or neutral henna to make herbal/henna powder in the color black. So "black henna" is safe to use on hair only when it is referring to Indigo.

What makes the various dyes "safe" or "not safe" has a lot to do with how intrusive the dye can be to the system on which it is applied. How intrusive is determined by how effectively the dye can saturate the skin. Does it pretty much sit on top of the skin and not penetrate beyond the top layer such as Indigo? If so, it washes off readily and does not leave deep coloring. Does it saturate the top two layers but go no further into the system.as safe dyes like henna? Does it saturate the top layers and penetrate deeper into the system and find it's way into the blood stream such as PPD? And if it can reach the blood system, what effect does it have on the body? These are the considerations.

What is known is that PPD can and does enter the system and can cause problems that minimally are development of varying degrees of sensitivity to specific dyes or to all dyes. A common reaction to PPD is contact dermatitis. A raising of bumps and blistering of the skin that itches severely and burns such that scarring of the area of contact is possible. Such bumps, blistering, and itching reactions are indication that the individual has a sensitivity to PPD. It is also an indication that the individual may now be sensitive to all dyes, and may experience other health issues. Contact dermatitis has been directly linked to PPD. It is speculated that other severe health issues may also be connected to the use of PPD. Obvious reactions to PPD may not and most often will not occur with the first application. The reaction and sensitivity can develop over time. Not everyone will have a reaction. But the problem is that you don't know how many applications it takes.one or many, many hundreds. Nor do you know if you are one of the ones who will have a reaction.

Sometimes the reactions are confused with the results of other hair procedures. Sometimes bumps, pimples and blistering on the scalp are attributed to other products or procedures. Sometimes hair loss is attributed to other products or procedures. Sometimes sudden rashes and skin and health problems are never connected to allergies to dyes or other possible effects of the PPD. Too many doctors are unaware of the effects of PPD. Far more are totally in the dark concerning how to diagnose or treat patients who have been effected by the use of PPD. Most often you will need to know the potential dangers and the signs and symptoms so you can take information to your doctor to help them provide appropriate treatment.

There has been speculation on the ill effects of the use of PPD long before PPD was used in henna paste for body art. But the visibility of the reactions when PPD is used in paste for body art has brought more attention to the issue. Such connections have long been made regarding the use of PPD in hair dyes. Despite the connections, such hair dyes containing PPD remain on the shelves of grocery stores, drug stores and beauty supply stores. A warning on labels regarding possible allergic reactions and recommendations for testing and discontinued use if an allergic reaction occurs is the consumers strongest indication that PPD is in the hair dye product. Take heed.

If you see a "henna" product for hair with such a warning on the label, it contains PPD. If it is referred to as "black henna" and does not indicate on the label or elsewhere that it is indigo, then it is most probably PPD. PPD is not safe to use.

Unfortunately, so much of the debate concerning "black henna" has been replete with scare tactics, denial, or over reaching, that the most important point gets lost and confused. And that point is that the culprit that you want to look out for is PPD. No matter how it is labeled or packaged or where it is sold or how long it has been sold or how many beauticians are willing to put on their plastic gloves and apply it to our heads.the culprit to avoid is PPD. PPD is not safe to use.

For those who may have some henna plants, can you use the fresh ground leaves for henna hair applications? If so, should you soak it just as you would dried henna powder? How much of the fresh ground leaves should you use?

You can use fresh ground leaves just as you would dried henna leaves or henna powder. Leaves from your plant is about as fresh as you can get. Fresh henna is always a good thing.
You don't want to soak either your fresh leaves or your henna powder. You do want to make a paste that you would apply to your hair. One thing that you will experience using your own fresh leaves is the difficulty rinsing out the pieces of the leaves in your paste. Unless you let your leaves dry.crush and grind them.then sift them extremely well to obtain ultra sifted powder, then you will have to deal with the pieces left in your hair after rinsing. Most people do not want to deal with this.

In order to do your hair, you would need far more henna leaves than you will obtain at one time from your plant. I am assuming that like most people you have one to three henna plants that are growing slowly indoors. If this is what you have, you could strip your plant(s) and still not have enough paste for a typical head of hair. And when you strip your plant of all its leaves, your plant will die. I see henna plants sort of like pets, rather than like a reliable source of sufficient henna leaves/powder to do your hair.

Consider a coffee mug to represent 100 grams of henna powder. Then consider how many leaves it would take to fill that mug once you have dried them, crushed them and then sifted adequately. If you purchased your henna plant(s), you will find that to be a pretty expensive endeavor that will leave you without the money spent for the plant(s), the plant.as well as plants to get more henna from.

However, if you are fortunate enough to live in an environment where henna grows or can grow outdoors and henna plants are plentiful, then you can indeed harvest sufficient leaves to do your hair without damaging your plants/bushes.

People from all over the world visit our boards, can you tell me if there are any hair types that should not use henna, or do you find it to work on all the various hair types?

This one is easy.
Henna works on all hair types. It will condition and color all hair types.

If someone didn't want to change their natural hair color, but did want the benefits of henna, what do you suggest they use? Are neutral hennas effective?

Yes, neutral henna.while not henna.is effective to condition the hair. There are many many natural herbs and botanicals that are sold as powder that are beneficial for conditioning the hair in one way or the other. I like to combine varieties of herbs and botanicals based upon their conditioning properties to obtain a product that provides the best results for the hair. I would suggest products like Lotus Powder Plus that I sell, and neutral henna that I sell, and is also easily obtained from many other sources. Cedarvale and From Nature with Love each carry neutral henna.

For those who find the process of traditional powdered henna too messy to apply, are there any other henna options for them?

For both the coloring and conditioning benefits of henna, there is no way to avoid the paste and its nature. Using henna requires preparation and time. It doesn't fit well in to a busy hurried life style. And the faster one tries to use their henna and apply their paste and rinse out their paste, the messier it becomes.the more frustrating the process.and the less satisfying the results.

Using henna requires a "change of mind." It requires the same sort of change of mind and provides similar satisfaction to switching from instant coffee to brewing your own coffee from freshly ground coffee beans that you selected in order to have the experience you desired. There is something about smelling coffee brewing and permeating your home that reminds you that somethings are to be savored and sipped and not rushed.

Henna is so messy. So I put newspaper on the bathroom floor as I apply it.wear my henna clothing.give myself a facial.do my nails.relax and enjoy the fact for this time I have allotted to the henna application, I belong to me and not to the world. When I am rinsing the henna from my hair, I also remove the hair from my legs and such. When I have rinsed my hair thoroughly, I apply my oils to my moist hair.shower and apply my favorite blend of oils to my body. I integrate the henna application into my "me" time. In a busy world and busy life, I sometimes need the excuse to take such time out for me. So the messiness is for me, henna's gift and invitation to stay longer and feel the warm water.take in aromas that I love and use oils that I know are beneficial. It slows me down and makes me take a day for myself. The world has to wait that day. And when I am finished, I love my hair and my skin and my relaxed self.

What a wonderful mindset! It reminds me of what my baby sister says... "It's a woman's duty to be a beauty." And of course this doesn't mean we have to look any certain way, rather to simply take time to take care of ourselves! I've never really thought of "henna time" as a part of this, but now I will!

Maureen, I have one last question before we wrap things up. If you are a first time user and you don't like your henna color results, what is the safest way to remove henna color? I've heard of people saying to use mineral oil or deep conditioners mixed with Crystal Light or baking soda. Are any of these safe and effective?

I strongly recommend the strand test or harvest hair test so that there are not great surprises from the use of henna. Typically, the color results that people do not like are hair that is too orange or brassy looking. Those colors can be altered easily. Too orange or light orange typically happen on light or gray hair on which old henna or henna paste made with an incorrect recipe or process are used. Obtaining fresh and quality henna powder will deepen the color and take it to red. Sometimes it requires a repeat application to get the color results desired. Brassy hair color is often remedied with time. The color of the hair at paste removal is not the color the hair will remain. The hair will darken in color. Waiting a couple of days has often made people who were initially dissatisfied with their hair coloring either more satisfied or happy with their results.

If the color result is red when you wanted a more reddish/brown, brown, dark brown or black, then what you required was the two step process discussed above. You simply need to obtain the correct color to make the color correction.

If however, you just decide that the color is not for you, you can try the above mentioned items. But none of them have been known to strip the henna from the hair for most people. Henna needs to fade out and that takes time. Exposure to the sun, swimming in chlorine or salt water, and applying lemon juice will lighten the henna some. But it does not take all of the color out.

So, I recommend that anyone not sure of what effect they will get with henna and not sure if they will like the results.please perform a strand test or harvested hair test on strands of the hair that is not readily visible or hair that you harvest from your comb or brush.

Using henna or deciding to switch to henna is a commitment. It is a commitment to the process and the time it takes, and yep.the messiness. But is also rewarding. Henna provides a natural and safe alternative to harsh chemicals. With henna, as with anything to which you are about to commit, do your investigation.get clear on what you can and should expect, as well as what you cannot and should not expect.seek out people who have good experiences with henna and find out how they make henna work for them. Henna users will usually be all too glad to share their experience with you.

I am also always willing to talk henna with you. Email me: Reneeskiln@aol.com with any questions or just to have a henna chat.

Maureen, it's been a real pleasure getting to know you, and learning so much about henna! Thank you for taking the time to share with us!

To place an order with Maureen, or simply to just look around, visit Everyday Mehndi

Thanks so much, Maureen!

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