Interview: Osman Ali Abid & Co

I've been a fan of Jamila Henna Powder for some years. So I was of course quite pleased to interview Syed Osman Ali, who represents the 3rd generation in his family of the founders of Abid & Company. This interview was at first intended to be an article of information provided. However, the conversational style of the reply by Osman Ali needed no interpretation or rewriting. His responses provide information and insights I felt best brought to you in his very own words and through the photographic journey he so generously provided.

Thank you so much Syed Osman Ali for agreeing to take the time to share your information and insights with us. I've quite a few questions. So let's get started.

Perhaps first you can provide us with a brief history of when and how henna became an export crop in Pakistan.

This question is very much related to the history of our Company, as we being the pioneers in Pakistan who started export of henna from Pakistan.

Our Company, Abid & Company started the journey of henna business in India in the year 1930. When Pakistan came into being in 1947, our Company shifted its set-up to Lahore- Pakistan and motivated the new immigrant farmers to grow henna plants and thus continued with the henna export business. There is more about this in our profile that I have provided.

Prior to becoming a crop that generated income, how was henna grown and used in Pakistan and who used it?

Henna is and has been in use since time immemorial. And Pakistan being a Muslim Country is a great user of henna powder in all point of views like using henna for religious purposes, henna used in custom practices like weddings as well as body decorations on Eids and weddings. In Pakistan, henna is also used for cooling purposes as extreme temperatures are observed here like 50 degree celsius.

In what regions of Pakistan is henna grown today? What areas grow the most and who are the people who grow it?

Pakistan is a land comprising of five provinces and these are Punjab, Sindh, N.W.F.P, Balochistan and Kashmir. Among the five, henna is grown in only two provinces and these are Punjab and Sindh. In Punjab, it is grown in districts Vihari and Sargodha. Whereas, in Sindh, it is grown in district NawabShah.

Henna is grown both by landlords as well as farmers.

How important is henna to the economy of Pakistan?

Henna plays a very minor role in bringing foreign currency to Pakistan as compared to the other agricultural items like rice, jute and cotton etc.

What countries account for importation of most of the henna powder that is exported from Pakistan?

There are several countries that import henna powder from Pakistan in very handsome quantities. Some of the countries are China, Turkey, North African belt and Middle East Asia etc.

Of the countries that import henna from Pakistan, which country purchases the least henna exported from Pakistan?

It depends upon the usage and rituals of the countries. Henna is used all over the world but its consumption depends upon its customs and traditions, like people do use henna in Canada but not like the way it is used and consumed in Asia or Africa.

Of the henna produced and sold within Pakistan, which has the greater market: Henna for hair use or henna for body art?

In Pakistan, henna is used as Sunnah of the Holy Prophet (Peace Be Upon Him). It is also used to dye and condition hair as well as nine months of the year, hot weather is observed. So people use it to decrease the affect of the heat.

In weddings and events like Eids, girls and women use henna to decorate their body with most of the intricate patterns.

Also in wedding ceremonies, henna night is celebrated in which girls and women bring decorated bowls of henna paste to the houses of bride and groom where people sing and dance and henna is applied to the hands of the couple.

Has the increased popularity of the use of henna in the West impacted production of henna in Pakistan?

Increased popularity of the use of henna in the West has not impacted the henna production in Pakistan because in the West, people do not use henna in bulk quantities.

What are the environmental requirements for growing, harvesting and production of henna? What are optimal conditions?

Hot weather, lots of water or if there is a rainfall then it's the best. Proper cleaning of soil and use of organic fertilizers, give the best results and such crop is supposed to be excellent for use for modern body art.

What role, if any, do women play in planting, harvesting and production of henna?

In most of the cases, women work shoulder to shoulder with their men.

Do people producing the henna powder in Pakistan have to take any special precautions in terms of health like masks and gloves etc., when sifting or bagging?

Yes, the machine men wear masks while grinding the henna leaves. However, we are working on the design of an experimental system where henna powder will not mix with the air while grinding of leaves.

What do you consider to be the biggest misconception about henna held by people?

The biggest misconception is that people think and even some of them argue with us giving us references and sending us samples that henna powder is available in many colours like, yellow, purple, blue, black etc.

What is the most important thing you want people to know about henna and henna production?

The paste made of natural henna powder will stain in the range of orange brown or reddish brown depending upon the technique of making paste and time of application. We will also like to give message to the henna lovers that, whichever vendor or manufacturer they buy henna powder from, always buy and rely on 100% natural henna products.

Share with us some information about how henna is planted and how it grows. How many crops of henna are produced yearly?

The seeds of henna are planted in small areas of land. The seeds grow with time and small plants are obtained. These plants are then transplanted in big areas of land in defined rows, columns and aisles.

Henna is harvested twice a year. The first crop arrives in May/June and is known as Summer Crop. The second crop arrives in November/ December and is known as Fall Crop.

Is one crop considered superior to the other? What is the difference?

Summer crop is the best crop because it arrives in extreme hot season when the temperatures are around 50 degree Celsius. Due to extreme heat, the dye contents are very high.

Is henna the main or only crop raised by farmers who grow it? If not, what other crops do they grow and harvest? How important is henna to their livelihood?

The farmer can't grow anything else in the same field as henna unless he remove all the henna plants in order to grow something else.

Henna plant is a life long companion.

Is henna grown on small farms typically or on large company owned farms? If both, what is the difference?

Both. But there is no difference in quality of the product. The quality of the product is also dependant on its processing like how it is cleaned, grinded and sifted etc.

What do you consider to be the main difference between henna grown and manufactured in Pakistan and henna grown and manufactured elsewhere?

The colour of the henna is dependant upon soil conditions. Like Pakistani henna gives colour near to orange brown and dark brown however, Indian henna gives a reddish brown colour.

Share with us some information specific about your company, Abid & Company (Pvt) Ltd and its products.

We introduce ourselves as leading manufacturers and exporters of henna powder from Pakistan with seventy-four years in henna manufacturing and its export. Our brands, named Jamila and Malika are well appreciated worldwide for their premium quality and fineness.

The journey of this business started in the year 1930 when Syed Qasim Ali positioned down the foundation stone of henna business in his hometown, Faridabad, near New Delhi (India). He gained the honour of becoming the shinning exporter of henna leaves and henna powder within no time. He migrated and shifted the whole set-up to Lahore ( Pakistan ) in 1948, a year after the partition of the Subcontinent. He took up the challenge and succeeded in encouraging the newly immigrant farmers to cultivate the henna plants. With his keen focus on the target, he became the principal exporter of henna leaves and henna powder of the country.

The journey of hard works converted into the voyage of success when Syed Abid Ali, eldest son of Syed Qasim Ali, joined his father in 1958. He launched the idea of henna powder in packaged form for the first time in Pakistan in the year 1963 and advertised the same under the name of JAMILA. Jamila acquired a remarkable response and a grand feedback from the whole world especially from North Africa, Asia, Europe. The market expanded to almost 64 countries of the globe.

In extension to providing world class Jamila Henna Powder and Malika Henna Powder to the local and international market, the Company established a highly equipped laboratory and entered the Cosmetics Industry in Pakistan. Target before the company was to help local entrepreneurs in the manufacture of cosmetic items such as hair oil, perfumes, creams, shampoos, lotions and make up items. The Company also introduced several world-renowned French, Swiss, Dutch and American perfume and chemical manufacturing companies to Pakistan. It thus became easier for the locals to explore new dimensions in the field of cosmetics.

In 1973, the company was incorporated as a private limited company and the area of technical assistance was considerably enlarged. Many of the customers were now in a position to make use of the Company's several contacts abroad and could procure highest quality raw materials, perfume bases and allied products at an economical price through its sale depots, in almost every big city of Pakistan.

In 1990, Syed Salman Ali, Syed Rizwan Ali and later Osman Ali joined their father in the family commerce and thus becoming the 3 rd generation in this field and today, by the Grace of Allah Almighty, the business is flourishing as we perceived.

How does Abid & Company process its henna powder?

Our team of experts purchase the crop of a land 15 days or one month prior to harvesting so as to take care of the crop in strict monitoring. Under continuous surveillance, the leaves are harvested and then dried in sunlight to make the leaves crisp for grinding and cleaning. The leaves are then cleaned from their impurities like dust and straws. Then ground in the temperature controlled environment so as to obtain the best results. During the process, veins of the leaves are removed in various kind of sifting machines and the powder is further cleaned from the remaining impurities, if any. This process is repeated until a silk smooth powder is obtained which is hygienic and safe to be used on human hair and skin.

The powder is tested on various hands and hair and then packed in different packing where its quality is re-checked for final approval. Finally approved products are shifted to the warehouse.

Well I want to thank you so much for your time and the information you provided. I know there are many people who have used your henna powder who want to thank you also for the fine quality of the Jamila Henna Powder that most of us are very familiar with. We greatly appreciate your sharing.

And since people will surely want your contact information so it is provided right here:

Osman Ali
Abid & Company (Pvt) Ltd
8-B, Darbar Market, Ganj Bukhsh Road, Lahore- Pakistan.
E-mail: osmanali@jamila.com.pk
abidco@jamila.com.pk
Tel: 92-42-7243663, 92-42-7115733
Fax: 92-42-7249956
URL: http://www.jamila.com.pk/

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